Arnica or Arnica Montana is a perennial herbaceous plant in the sunflower family known for its characteristically large, yellow flower head. The arnica mountain flowers of the plant contain the most arnicin hence are the preferred segment that is dried and infused as fatty arnica oil that is then generally blended into topical formulas. Arnica is native to Europe and found naturally in mountainous regions across North America.
Paula from Whitfords uses Arnica in their barrier cream - Arnica & Capuacu Moisturiser - to soothe, condition and calm the skin. While Mariana from Silvan Skincare uses Arnica to reduce inflammation and soothe overused muscles and joints in their Recover and Revive Body Oils and Muscle Balm.
Arnica oil helps minimise the appearance of redness, assists with irritation and can soothe, calm and condition the skin. It has many properties including antiseptic, astringent, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, anti-coagulant, circulation-stimulating, and healing. It helps relax tired and overworked muscles and joints after strenuous physical activity or even more simply, after a stressful day. It can also help repair damaged skin and calm reddened and/or inflamed skin. It was traditionally used as an ointment to treat contusions, bruises, and hematoma and has been used for centuries as a home remedy to help wounds, scrapes, bruises, swelling, muscle pain, rheumatic pain and inflammation.
Arnica is considered excellent for acne skin as it is antiseptic, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory and on the body, can be used on all skin types to relieve tension and muscular aches and pains.
Avoid if…
Arnica is quite a powerhouse and some people could be sensitive to the plant so best to test before use and to avoid excessively repetitive applications to avoid inflammation.
Arnica is often found in topical body balms, creams and oils that soothe and help muscle recovery.
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Babassu oil or cusi oil is a clear light yellow, almost odourless vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the babassu palm tree (Attalea speciosa), which is known as the ‘Tree of Life’ to locals which grows in the Amazon rainforests of Brazil.
The oil is extracted from the kernels by cold pressing and results in 65-68% oil content from the kernels.
As a palm oil, Babassu oil is widely thought of as a sustainable alternative to mainstream palm oil products.
Rich in healthy fatty acids and antioxidants, babassu can boost the health of your skin and hair without feeling greasy or blocking pores. High in vitamin E, it has antibacterial and antimicrobial qualities which protect and nourish the skin. It is an effective emollient and can be used as a carrier oil and a substitute for coconut oil. High in lauric (50%) and myristic acid (20%) which both melt at temperatures close to human body temperature, it softens upon skin contact melting beautifully into your skin.
Suitable for all skin types but for combination skin types, it will help moisturise dry areas without aggravating oily patches.
Babassu oil is used in cleansers, skin and haircare products. This oil has properties similar to coconut oil hence is used in much the same context but as it is almost scent-free, unlike coconut oil, it is increasingly becoming a substitute.
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Borage comes from a hardy Mediterranean herb which is sometimes perceived as a weed. and the leaves and flowers are extracted or the seeds pressed for oil. Borage is sometimes also called starflower (because the edible flowers on the shrub are star-shaped), bee bread or bugloss.
The borage leaves are ready to harvest once they turn brown. They're then left to dry fully before cold pressing into an oil which is filtered. Borage oil can be classed as a natural ingredient.
Borage can be found in natural skincare products as a carrier oil and also as an extract.
Borage is a mineral rich oil and contains gamma-linoleic acid (making it ideal for use in baby massage), linoleic acid (omega 6), oleic acid (omega 9), potassium and calcium. It has anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory properties, keeps skin hydrated as well as helping to nourish and heal the skin.
Borage is a great all-round natural skincare ingredient that helps to keep your skin well maintained and balanced. Because of its calming and nourishing properties, borage is good for sensitive skin types or for use after skin has had a reaction as well as eczema or dermatitis prone skin.
You'll find borage in natural skincare products that are designed to hydrate or help the skin retain moisture like face oils, baby massage oils and even hand sanitisers.
Borago officinalis
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There are over 300 different species of aloe vera but only a handful are used in natural remedies and skincare. It's often called the desert lily or the first aid plant because of its medicinal benefits throughout history. Native to Africa, it's grown in sunny, dry climates and is ripe when the inside contains that well-known gel.
Aloe vera is derived and used in several forms including aloe vera powder, extract, gel or juice which are all made from its leaves. The gel can be pasteurised, the leaves crushed to make a powder or macerated in jojoba or sunflower oil to create an oil.
You can apply the fresh gel directly on to your skin but it does oxidise fairly quickly so you may wish to opt for buying a tried and tested formulation by a reputable natural brand.
Aloe vera has a high water content so its juice is useful as an alternative to water in cream and gel skincare formulations. Instead of simply being a filler ingredient, using aloe instead of water benefits your skin too because of the high amount of nutrients found naturally within its green leaves.
Because it is grown in extremely hot and dry terrains, aloe vera helps the skin to retain moisture as well as calming hot or dehydrated skin. It's also a fantastic anti-ageing ingredient because of its vitamin A content which diminishes dark spots and encourages cell turnover. There's also aloin, a natural de-pigmenting compound and vitamins B, C and E help to stave off oxidative stress, improve radiance and smooth the skins texture.
Because of its variety of uses aloe vera is suitable for all skin types but particularly hot, sun burnt or sun damaged skin. As with all ingredients and products, we recommend patch testing before use.
You'll find aloe vera in plenty of our organic moisturisers both as a soothing ingredient and as a substitute for water. It's also a great addition to bodycare products that aim to help target sensitive or sun damaged skin as well as gel based products like eye cream, hand sanitisers and shower gels.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Aloe Perryi
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Safflower is a relative of the sunflower and are typically red and orange flowers. Natural skincare ingredients are mainly extracted from the seeds and petals either as pure oil which can then form the basis of naturally derived safflower ingredients, or as an oil maceration.
You may see the following safflower derivatives in your natural beauty products:
Safflower oil has a light consistency and so can help to deliver nutrients from other ingredients to the skin. You may also see Hybrid Safflower Oil which is a genetically modified version of safflower which contains high concentrations of oleic acid triglyceride.
Polyglycerol can be derived from safflower's fatty acids and used as an emulsifier.
Potassium safflowerate and sodium safflowerate are used in soap making and cleansing products.
Along with moisturising vitamin E, safflower oil contains palmitoleic acid which helps to hydrate and encourage the skin's elasticity. Because of this, safflower can have a tightening effect on the skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles being visible. There's also a high level of Omega 6 fatty linoleic acid which soothes problematic skin by working in tandem with the skins natural sebum to unclog pores and reduce redness. Then, Omega 9 oleic acid softens skin and boosts radiance.
Generally safflower oil reduces oxidative stress and free radical damage. This prevents the slow down of collagen production and improves the skin's texture and appearance of dark spots. There's also stearic acid naturally present within safflower oil which is a natural preservative, helping to prolong the shelf life of the oil.
As safflower is non-comodegenic (non-pore blocking) it can be suitable to many different skin types. Some of our natural beauty brands use it in their formulations because it can help keep oily and combination skin balanced.
Because of its softening properties you'll find safflower in moisturisers and haircare products as well as oil-based products like cleansers and face oils.
Carthamus Tinctorius
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Mushroom derived ingredients in beauty products include:
What is Sclerotium gum and where does it come from?
Sclerotium gum is a naturally derived powder that is found in fermented sclerotium mushrooms. The fermentation process produces a stringy, sugary texture.
How is sclerotium gum used in natural beauty products?
Using sclerotium gum is a pure way to add texture to natural skincare products and it is often used as a thickening agent, as well as a stabilising ingredient. Sclerotium gum helps to make product spreadable as well as create a soft, supple feeling on the skin.
What products will you find sclerotium gum in?
Because of its thickening and spreadability properties you'll find sclerotium gum in gel and cream based products including face creams, bath products and natural face masks. It's a particularly useful ingredient for helping to spread product over delicate skin, like the eye area.
There are over 1500 species of cactus which are mainly native to America. Cacti are prickly, with no leaves and hold a lot of water. Some common cacti species used in natural beauty products are; prickly pear which is a flat leaf with colourful fruit shaped fronds that flowers and is sometimes called the Indian Fig.
There's a natural extract derived from prickly pear called aquacacteen which is an emollient cream which helps bind other ingredients together as well as being particularly soothing on the skin. It also helps to even out skin tone.
You'll also find it in fibre form which is used for body brushing and exfoliating products.
Cactus extracts like prickly pear oil or extract are soothing and softening on the skin. The extract epiphyllum oxpetalum is also helps to condition the skin. Cactus is rich in flavonoids, amino acids and polysaccharides.
Because of cactus' soothing properties, it can provide relief from sunburn, minor bites and inflamed and irritated skin. Generally, it also helps maintain an even and balanced skin tone and condition.
Opuntia ficus-indica or opuntia tuna - aquacacteen or prickly pear
Epiphyllum oxpetalum - cactus extract
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Myrtle is a herbaceous flowering shrub which has over 600 different types found all over the world but originates from the mediterranean and is associated with innocence and purity historically. Some examples of variants found in skincare are myrtle, lemon myrtle, bog myrtle or sweet gale.
You can take extracts of myrtle from the bark, leaves and stems as well as the delicate white flowers. These extracts are then usually steam distilled making it a naturally derived ingredient in natural and organic beauty products.
Myrtle is made up of the constituents myrtenol, myrtenol-acetate, limonene and linalool. For more information on oil constituents click here.
Because of its abilities to help acne and problematic skin as well as its antibacterial and anti-septic properties, myrtle is suited to oily and combination skin.
You may wish to avoid using myrtle on the skin whilst pregnant.
Myrtle is often used in organic cleansers and facial oils because of its balancing and anti-septic properties. It can be deodorising too so you may also find it in deodorants or merely to add natural rather than synthetic fragrance to natural and organic beauty products.
Myrtus communis - myrtle
Backhousia citriodora - lemon myrtle
Myrica gale - sweet gale
Nettle is a herbaceous perennial flowering plant, which means it flowers once a year and has leafy, rather than woody stems. Nettle is easily found in the wild in many locations, but is native to Europe, Asia, northern Africa and western North America. There are over 500 varieties of nettle.
Rich in minerals and vitamins, nettle has many uses in organic skincare as well as natural hair products. When used in natural skin care products, the extract’s rich consistency of silicium and magnesium are extremely beneficial for various skin concerns like blemishes, acne and sunburn as well as because of its anti bacterial and sebum regulating properties. It also has a high vitamin E content and is packed with a wide spectrum of amino acids, antioxidants and carotenoids so it is a great ingredient for general skin health.
The extraction method differs according to the function of the oil but the whole plant has therapeutic benefits. Only a small dosage is needed and therefore, often diluted when used in skincare products. The leaves are soaked in a liquid, or steam extracted.
INCI: Urtica dioica
Sources
https://www.atlantisskincare.com/ingredient/nettle-leaf-extract/
https://botaneri.com/nettle-extract/
Milady Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary 4th Edition; M. Varinia Michalun, Joseph C. Dinardo
Whilst we hope the pages are informative it’s important to remember we’re organic beauty enthusiasts not scientists so the information is detailed here to the best of our knowledge or research we have conducted from third parties. Whilst we are continually updating our content based on new research, it may not always be up to date and as such it is the readers’ responsibility to conduct their own research in order to independently verify the information and make an informed decision on their beauty regime/lifestyle. Any opinion expressed on the efficacy of a product is based on tests performed by our team. As everyone has different skin types and concerns, please be advised that what works for them might not work for you but we try to give as much subjective information as possible which we hope you will find useful. If in any doubt, please consult a medical professional.
May Chang fruit is a berry-like fruit, grown in Southeast Asia. The pure essential oil is steam distilled from the small peppercorn-like fruits of the tree. Comparatively new to the West, it originates from China. The citrus fragrance of the oil is an all round winner; being uplifting, helping emotional balance, and boosting energy.
With the ability to bring relief to tired achy muscles, May Chang is often found in self care products, such as body oils or natural candles. May Chang is also used in skin cleansing products to boost astringent and anti-bacterial properties
May Chang is best avoided in individuals with sensitive skin, as it is highly citrus. It is best avoided if you have any form of open skin or skin condition such as eczema or highly allergy-prone skin. Do not use undiluted on the skin. Avoid contact with sensitive areas, such as eyes.
INCI name: Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Sweet Marjoram leaf is a perennial herb with shrub like feathers. The oil is steam distilled from the dried leaves and flowering tops of the leafy plant which it originates from.
]]>What is sweet marjoram oil and where does it come from?
Sweet Marjoram leaf is a perennial herb with shrub like feathers. The oil is steam distilled from the dried leaves and flowering tops of the leafy plant which it originates from. The prime source of the oil is Egypt, but that’s not to say it hasn’t been used for centuries across many ancient cultures; in Greece, the flowers from this herb were used to crown married couples. They were said to be a symbol of love and honour.
How is Sweet Marjoram leaf oil used in organic and natural beauty products?
Due to its sweet herbaceous aroma and anti fungal properties, it can be found in natural cleansing products or soothing body oils. Its sweet, woody and slightly minty scent is naturally relaxing, so it is beneficial in self care products and organic sleep mists.
What properties does Sweet Marjoram leaf oil have?
It is a relaxing, warming and comforting oil particularly good for overthinking and worry. It is also great for muscular aches and pains, lethargy and digestive problems.
Botanical Family: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
INCI : origanum majorana
Marjoram can occasionally cause redness and itching so always do a patch test
Whilst we hope the pages are informative it’s important to remember we’re organic beauty enthusiasts not scientists so the information is detailed here to the best of our knowledge or research we have conducted from third parties. Whilst we are continually updating our content based on new research, it may not always be up to date and as such it is the readers’ responsibility to conduct their own research in order to independently verify the information and make an informed decision on their beauty regime/lifestyle. Any opinion expressed on the efficacy of a product is based on tests performed by our team. As everyone has different skin types and concerns, please be advised that what works for them might not work for you but we try to give as much subjective information as possible which we hope you will find useful. If in any doubt, please consult a medical professional.
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What is Wheatgrass and where does it come from?
Wheatgrass is the youngest form of grass shoots of the wheat plant, it is packed full of essential nutrients. Exactly how it sounds; wheatgrass is a long green grass, grown in the temperate climate of Europe and some areas of the United States.
How is wheatgrass used in organic and natural beauty products?
Known widely as a green leafy juice, internally digested, wheatgrass extract can also be used on the skin in organic beauty products. A superfood and considered one of the world’s “natural treasures”.
Which skin types is wheatgrass suited to?
The natural anti-ageing properties of wheatgrass help rejuvenate cells, take care of sagging skin, maintain skin elasticity and keep you looking younger. Find it in natural cleansing products.
A multi-talented oil, mint is a herbaceous perennial plant, producing an abundance of varieties- peppermint being one of them. A beneficial element to peppermint oil is its antimicrobial properties. Peppermint is an aromatic herb in the mint family, and is a hybrid mint that’s a cross between spearmint and watermint. It can be found naturally in North America and Europe.
Records of the use of mint plants for medicinal purposes go all the way back to the times of Ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The leaves and flowers are picked just before maturity when the, as to preserve the richest form of essential oil, and steam distilled. There are a few ways in which peppermint is derived from its natural form; for skincare , typically the essential oil is used- a very concentrated form that can be used for aromatherapy or diluted and applied to the skin.
When extracted, peppermint oil is beneficial for natural anti-inflammatory treatments, as well as soothing irritation and contains Vitamin A, which aids in oily skin types. It is predominantly found in soaps and uplifting products, due to its rejuvenating scent and anti-bacterial properties.
The main constituent is menthol, approximately 40-70%, but this depends on a few factors of the plant’s origin.
Mint INCI NAME: Mentha piperita
The baobab is a tree that's grown in Africa, Australia and sometimes Asia. It bears a green skinned, oval shaped fruit which is used in organic and natural beauty products.
The oil from the seed is most often used in natural beauty products but it can also be found as an extract or a powder that's taken from the pulp, seed and leaves of the fruit.
Baobab has a very high level of vitamin C and has emollient and smoothing properties. It's also known to improve the skin's elasticity to help keep your skin supple and toned. A high proportion of the seed is oil when pressed and contains linoleic and oleic acids which help to moisturise and soften your skin as well as prevent moisture loss.
With its strong moisture retaining properties and the high amounts of linoleic acid, a natural component of sebum, baobab can be suitable for all skin types but particularly for those with acne prone or problematic complexions.
Baobab can be found in Nom Nom's Pregnancy Stretch Butter to help improve your skin's elasticity as your bump grows as well as Codex's Bia Facial Oil which you can wear day or night to keep skin smooth and hydrated.
Adansonia digitata
Bamboo is a grass that has wood-like stems. You'll find it growing predominantly in India and South China but it's used all over the world. Bamboo grows quickly and in abundance.
Bamboo can be used in both skincare formulations and as a fibre to create reusable wash cloths and make up wipes. In skincare ingredient lists you'll generally find bamboo extract which is naturally derived and used either as an emollient (generally extracted from the sap) or as a skin conditioners (extracts from leaves and stems).
Because bamboo is good at binding moisture, it's good for helping to plump and lock moisture into the skin. Bamboo contains Vitamin E, anti oxidants, Vitamin C and silica so you can help protect the skin from damage, signs of ageing, sun damage, the appearance of scars, boost collagen production and brighten sun spots and other signs of ageing with bamboo extracts. It also regenerates and firms the skin and adds shine and lustre to hair.
You'll find bamboo extract in a range of our natural skincare brands that are made in the UK, including cleansers, exfoliators and face masks and skin treatments.
Bambusa Arundinacea
Sources
It's used in natural skincare as a natural fragrance or flavour for products but it doesn't have any cosmetic or therapeutic benefits. It is a similar flavour to fennel seeds.
INCI Name: Pimpinella Anisum
Caprylic acid is a saturated fatty acid, also known as octanoic acid is usually naturally derived from palm kernel or coconut oil. It is a clear, odourless and edible liquid that comes from the coconut of the coconut palm tree.
It comes from the coconut of the coconut palm tree found in tropical and subtropical areas around the world.
Valued as a more natural alternative, it binds ingredients well and helps active ingredients last longer in topical skincare products
It is made by first separating the fatty acids and the glycerol by hydrolysing (exposing to heat and pressure) the coconut oil.
It is usually used in skin care as an emollient, dispersing agent and solvent. As an emollient, it quickly penetrates the surface to condition the skin and hair, and provides a lightweight, non-greasy lubricating barrier. As a dispersing agent, it helps enhance the delivery of vitamins, pigments and active ingredients contained in a solution so that they become evenly spread and fully absorbed by the epidermis. Its oily texture thickens cosmetic formulas and provides a slipperiness, which in turn allows the easy spreadability of solutions and a smooth after-feel.
Cosmetic formulators value this product for its lack of colour and odour, as well as for its stability. It has such great stability and resistance to oxidation that it has an almost indefinite shelf life.
This emollient, or skin softener, helps to boost the penetration of skincare formulations and makes them spread easily across the skin. It is light-textured, clear, odourless and non-greasy.
It is suitable for all skin types but due to it’s anti microbial properties, it can help fight acne.
Pomegranate is a fruit bearing shrub that's mainly found in the mediterranean region of Europe. It's a large red fruit that contains jewel like seeds which are beneficial both nutritionally and for skin health and care.
You'll find pomegranate seed oil and pomegranate extracts in your natural skincare products. Pomegranate extracts can be from the bark of the shrub or the juice or oil from the seeds.
Typically the pomegranate seeds are extracted using carbon dioxide rather than petrochemicals or solvents which ensures the juice or oil is as pure and potent as possible. It's an expensive ingredient to source as around 90kg of pomegranates are harvested to make half a kilogram of oil or extract.
Pomegranate seed oil contains some lesser known but no less beneficial antioxidants such as ellagic acid and omega 5 (also known as punicic acid), 6 and 9 as well as vitamin B and C, potassium and magnesium. It is a useful anti ageing ingredient because it's full of anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatories to help protect and repair which are useful to counteract the effects of sun damage.
The extracts from pomegranate have cleansing, toning and purifying properties whilst the oil soothes, nourishes and protects.
Pomegranate oil is a stable oil which is easily absorbed into the skin without leaving it greasy making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and combination. Because of its restorative and replenishing properties, pomegranate is ideal for damaged or more mature skins. With any skincare ingredient, we always recommend patch testing.
Pomegranate extracts can be found in a number of skincare and beauty products including eye creams, suncare and face oils.
The INCI name for pomegranate is punica granatum.
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Otherwise known as: Manihot utilissima
Best for dry or mature skin types due to the vitamin A which helps skin cells to function as well as regenerate whilst also helping to improve the skin's texture, hydration and clarity. Also containing beta-carotene is a potent antioxidant which assists in the management of dry, flaky skin.
Rice Bran Oil, Extract or Wax
Rice bran is extracted from the husk or chaff of the outer layer of the rice plant. It has soothing properties due to its high concentration of vitamin E as well as boosting collagen production. With linolic, oleic and palmitic acid, it is ideal for dry or mature skin.
Antioxidant rich tomato seed oil is an effective anti-ageing skincare ingredient. With 25% palmitic acid which both preserves the formulation from contamination and also protects the skin from free radical and UV damage in high doses. Omega 6 works to protect the skin's barrier, prevent moisture loss and omega 9 promotes cell regeneration to leave the skin soft and supple. Copper, iron and manganese minerals help to absorb deeply into the skin's layers and support its structure.
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It's found in cooler coastal or mountainous areas throughout Europe, you'll recognise it because of its bright orange berries.
Lactic acid is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) and gently exfoliates the skin as well as protecting the skin barrier. Great for dry skin types, it is known to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots as well as brighten, soften and smooth the complexion because it promotes cell turnover and renewal. Skin will appear plumper as moisture is retained on the skin. It also stimulates collagen production.
This ingredient is naturally found in milk so if used in skincare formulations they may not be classed as vegan. There are mainly synthetic forms of lactic acid found on the market so it's important to check with the brand where they source their lactic acid from. Also check how high it ranks on the ingredient list depending on your skin type as it can cause dryness, redness and peeling in higher concentrations. Always wear sunscreen following its use which should be limited to once or twice per week so ideal for inclusion in masks and exfoliating treatments.
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Clay is processed by being left to dry naturally in the sun. It is then crushed and purified. Only the finest grain of clay is used for beauty products.
There are many different types of clay including Moroccan Atlas Rhassoul which is a volcanic clay named after the Arabic word for washing, and Fullers Earth Clay which is a type of bentonite clay (calcium bentonite) named after the largest source of this type of clay found at Fort Benton in the USA. It's found all over the world though and Fullers Earth is from the UK.
It's important not to let clay completely dry onto the skin as it will begin to extract moisture leaving the complexion dry and blotchy. Also, we advise against using a metal scoop to dispense and measure out a clay based powder mask because it affects the ions within and any skincare benefits will be voided.
Otherwise known as: solum fullonum (fuller's earth)
]]>Don’t be put off by hemp’s notorious side, because it can be very effective as an anti ageing treatment.
Hemp seed oil is packed full of essential fatty acids. It has little to no THC or CBD content unlike hemp oil which is extracted from the leaves contains CBD. It’s most common that hemp seed oil is used in skincare and is extracted by cold pressing. It’s effective at moisturising the skin without clogging pores and also at regulating oil production making it a great all round oil for all skin types. Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids act as both a moisturiser and anti-inflammatory to help manage dry skin conditions. All of this combined, helps support its anti-ageing properties.
]]>Otherwise known as: citrus paradisi (extract)
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